Rani Zakhem One More Dance Collection SS16

As in a dream, the mythical balls of a vanished era swirl before our eyes through Rani Zakhem's new Spring Summer 2016 couture collection. Welcome to the wardrobe of Charles James, Jacqueline de Ribes and modern time princesses! We are in 1966 and you have just received the most coveted invitation of New York. A white mask and white dress, you will go to the "Black and White party" given by Truman Capote at the Plaza. At times, you are Rita Hayworth in Gilda. Cecil Beaton completed your portrait with light. Close your eyes, here you are: a surreal woman whisked away in a black limousine to magnificent celebrations.

To recreate this supernatural atmosphere where the airy dress, becomes scintillating rain, a perfume, a wake, a cloud, a rustle, a flutter, Rani Zakhem, direct heir of Hollywood glamour, immersed himself in the archives of the great couturiers of post war. A pure product of Parson's New York, he has gleefully, daringly sought to reinterpret aesthetics of a period avid of luxury and opulence in response to crisis. Rani Zakhem takes us through the 40's, 50's and 60's of the 20th century in the hushed ambience of the last true great balls, and then plunges us into the high society television series of the 80's -Dallas Dynasty- their sheath gowns, their jewels, their sumptuous interiors.

Starting with a bow, set like a pair of imaginary wings, the designer sculpts a pastel palette, made of  peaked corsets, from where bloom large petticoats, scooped or pleated  as petals in a corolla , whether ground grazing or stopping at the birth of the calf, in a nod to the Nouvelle Vague . Superimposed Clouds of Belle Époque tulle crinolines cascade from duchess satin, silk organza to Mikado. Precious textures, bright and refined, these skirts are made to soar in majestic waltz rhythms. Corset necklines are adorned with vine cascading   lace enhanced with crystal applications. Art Deco is never far away from the collections of this lover of sumptuous eras. We recognize his signature in long sheaths and mermaid dresses, at times carved into a dusky silk where gold lace is interwoven with large paisley patterns and others in nacreous pearl white damask silk with deep "V" neckline, draped and finished with a diamond-shaped jewel where briolette-cut crystals twinkle. Here and there capes and trains sublime the silhouette with a touch of majesty.

Resolutely turning his back on the sexy transparencies and ostentatious eroticism of the new millennium red carpet, Rani Zakhem translates, with powdery notes, from white to Nile green through pink, yellow and pale blue, livened up by hints of anise or faded vermilion, and highlighted by the absoluteness of  black and gold, a new desire of dreams and magic. Through the magic of a dress, Rani Zakhem has the talent to turn a desire of romance, freshness and virginity into reality.